Nomadic Texan

I have sampled pizza at many places over the years on my trips to Cuenca and some have been great and others well, not so great! This trip I started eating pizza at a new place. The name of the restaurant is La Fornace and they had an extensive menu that might surprise you. Its filled with massive amounts of true Italian food. I tried a pizza “La Fornace” and made a few changes. No pimiento (green peppers) or Salchicha (Hot Dogs). I added more chicken.

The La Fornace Amended

It was spectacular and I have eaten three of these when I needed a quick meal in Cuenca. Their oven must have a very high temperature as it only takes around 5 minutes once you place your order. They absolutely know what they are doing.

Vladamir (cook) and Santiago (Chef)

Immediately when you enter they are at your table and ask for your drink order and if you are ready take you food order. I had a wonderful young man last night that treated me like a king. He kept me in business!

Pablo My Server with the Cashier

They serve desserts, but most people opt for their ice cream cone, as an end to the meal. They positioned the dip station up front, so that people passing by can purchase a cone and keep going. Apparently they have quite an ice cream business, as this young lady prepped cones with napkins the entire time I was eating. She must have done 150 cones or more.

Lady Busy Prepping Cones

If you find yourself in Cuenca and have a yen for a pizza I promise you cannot go wrong at La Fornace! Just remember you don’t eat the pizza with your hands like we do in the US. That is considered very ill mannered. You must use your fork and knife! FYI! Saludos mi amigos.

The Old Cathedral Steeple at Night

As I walked Cuenca last night, I inevitably had to pass through Parque Caldron. I saw this dramatic photo just waiting for me to shoot and had to take the picture. Cuenca has become like a second home to me and I love the architecture, the people and definitely the food!

I have mixed emotions about leaving and going back home. I am confident, regardless of what some may say, that Cuenca will never lose its charm or appeal. Hasta Luego mi amigo.

Woolen Hats

I have been debating purchasing one of these hats with the tassels, while I am staying in Cuenca. They are quite popular across all age groups here in Ecuador. They appear to really be a heavy wool and have great flaps to keep your ears warm.

I am just afraid that if I wore these back in Texas I would get a plethora of adjectives hurled at me. You know I love #Hats, but this might just be a little too much. Guess I will hold off until my next trip! Saludos!

One of the charming factors about being in Cuenca is the Indigenous People and the various and sundry apparel they wear. Each area has a traditional costume and appearance right down to the hat color and style. You can stand near the Parque Calderon on Saturdays and see a myriad of color explosions scurry past as they seem to always be in a hurry. Lately I have noticed though that the majority of these individuals are female and of a more mature status.

Indigenous Couple

The traditions are at serious risk, as the majority of the males and especially the younger generation have turned to western garb. I also think that the locals associate specific stigmas against the Indigenous peoples and cast them in lower income jobs such as street pedaling of fruits, candies and plants or flowers.

Indigenous Lady Weaving Straw Baskets

It is sad to think that this colorful and creative garb will soon be a thing of the past. One can’t help but express remorse at this prospect. I would guess that 80% of the Indigenous women that still maintain the appropriate wear and clothing are older than 50. Some are resorting to begging, as I am positive they cannot find employment and left to fend for themselves. I have seen only a couple of men that dress in their historical garments and they are mostly from the same clan.

Indigenous Man

I sincerely hope that the Ecuadorian people can address this situation and begin to help these endangered sects of people. It may already be under way, but I have not heard whether it is a funded program or not, at this time. I truly hope that before its is too late someone or some agency steps in and helps these people out or it will in fact be the last generation and I would guess at the end of 30 years this attire will be a thing of the past.

Ladies Looking at Goods at The New Cathedral

A Younger Indigenous Lady

A Mature Lady Banking

Hopefully you can experience this wonderful tradition before its too late. Take a trip to Cuenca and I promise you will see many Indigenous women dressed in their traditional apparel. Saludos mi amigos!

One of the true pleasures of Cuenca, is walking the streets of Old Town. I never get tired of performing this activity and it is a great form of exercise for individuals. Each time I go out I have no plans and just start walking in one direction or another with no agenda. Its amazing that over time I still keep finding architectural treasures that I have never seen. In addition, I run into people of all walks of life and tourists. The tourists are not hard to spot as shown in these photos.

Male Gringo Tourists

Female Gringa Tourists

There must be several Catholic Nun orders, as I have seen a plethora of various dress. As Catholicism is such a large portion of the population, I find that I see Nuns all over, shopping and taking care of their needs. It is quite different than where I live in Texas.

Catholic Nun

Although a great deal of the population uses cars it is never odd to see bicycles being used to transport items needed for everyday use. A large portion of the condos and apartments are fueled by propane tanks and this gentleman is pedaling his wares! Sorry I couldn’t help myself!

Bicycle Mode of Transportation

A favorite sweet item is this kind of marshmallow substance that the vendors place in ice cream cones and since it is very economical the vast majority of the population eats these cones. You will always see them eaten in any type of weather cold or hot. The Ecuadorians love this treat!

Soft Serve Cones

Another common sight is the scooter parking areas where as many as ten or more can be seen together. Scooters are a great way of navigating through the increasing traffic and getting to places cars cannot. This time the amount of scooters has tripled since the last time I was here. I think maybe the gas prospective cost increase may have something to do with it also.

Scooter Parking

This Mom and daughter are sharing a great moment talking with a vendor. School just recently started back up and as you can see each school has its own uniform. I see all kinds of school dress as I walk and the various color schemes are very snazzy.

Mother Loving Her Daughter

The lady in the black outfit gave me a fairly intense stare down, as I prepared to take this photo. She finally went in the building. Perhaps it was her store. Anyway I thought the sign was comical as it states the hair used is 100% human hair from the head of a human. Where else would it be from?

Authentic Hair Extensions

My last photo is also comical to me. I find the uses of words and how they translate hilarious at times. This states one would think The Palace of Joys. In actuality the translation is The Palace of Jewels. Had to think about the name, especially given the pictures.

Palace of Joys

I love Cuenca. One of these days I hope to come back again. Until then, if you visit, please do a little Street-walking and see the sight! Saludos!

Street Fruit Vendors

One of the common sights one sees when walking the streets of Cuenca, is the fruit vendors selling their wonderful items from a wheelbarrow. I think the wheelbarrow business would be a good business, as the vendors are set up almost every two or three blocks. Mostly locals purchase these items, but occasionally I see tourists buying the fruit. It is so cheap and so good looking that one has to avoid temptation, unless they have the materials needed to cleanse the fruit appropriately.

I have learned over time that fruits and vegetables grown by root source (like potatoes, onions, garlic, carrots, etc) must be soaked thoroughly in the cleansing treatment or one will have a visit from the Grand Amoeba and trust me that’s not fun. The tree fruits and vegetables are safer, but still require a good cleansing. Ecuador has a bountiful supply of fruits and veggies, but I would urge you to make sure you treat them prior to consuming! Saludos!

Toilet Paper Vendor

One of the more strange things you run into on the streets of Cuenca are toilet paper vendors. They have large baskets and simply walk from store to store or even sell to passers by, if they are in need. Most of the public restrooms are not equipped with toilet paper and I would guess people walking buy the rolls for safety!

The store operators obviously use it in their facilities. It is a very common sight to see these individuals rolling along, selling their paper. The first time I saw this I was taken back, but I guess door to door delivery saves walking and gas!

I have been to Cuenca several times and have always wanted to eat at Don Colon’s restaurant. For one reason or another I have never had the pleasure of dining at this establishment. So when I saw that Don Colon was relocating right off the Parque Calderon I was ecstatic. Construction went on all weekend and they opened Monday.

Don Colon Restaurant

I couldn’t wait to try it out Don Colon’s the first day at their new location. I was not disappointed, as I had a bowl of great potato soup, pork chop with rice and hominy along with a dessert. In addition a fresh juice is served which was Mora on Monday. The meal was topped off with a fried dessert stuffed with apple filing. This came to a whopping $4.00 for this multi course meal. I was astonished and could not believe the quality of the food.

Monday’s Lunch Special 

Being a suspicious type person I ventured back today Thursday to try the lunch again. I had my choice of liver and onions, a tipico Ecuadorian meal and a Chimichanga with chicken and cheese. I chose the latter, even though its probably not the most healthy. First course again was a delicious soup and the my entree with black beans and rice, salad and the Chimichanga.

Thursday’s Lunch 

Afterwards I was served a fantastic fried Sopapilla with banana inside. The juice of the day was Papaya. I was blown away again and could not believe how great it tasted and how full I was after a huge lunch.

Desert

I had the pleasure of meeting Colon Campos who owns the restaurant and is the namesake. He greeted every customer himself personally today. Given the low end pricing, the quality of the food and the fantastic customer service I don’t see any reason this restaurant won’t thrive in its new location. Oh by the way, he has Fish and Chips tomorrow and I will be back!

Don Colon and the Nomadic Texan

Desserts for Sale

One never finds a shortage of desserts in Cuenca and it amazes me that more of the Ecuadorians are not obese, like we find in the US. I guess its a result of all the walking. Every day when I go out and roam the streets of Old Town, I run into (sometimes literally) so many people, its staggering.

I have no idea where they are going and in most cases they are walking at a rather fast gait. I guess this helps shed the sugar and the bread calories. Heladeria’s, Panesa’s and eating establishments abound. Its very tempting and you can eat until you can’t breathe, but you also can always walk it off the next day. I love it!

Mariscal Lamar y Benigno Malo Jewelry Marcado

There is a handmade craft mercado at the corner of Mariscal Lamar y Benigno Malo, that has various jewelry and one can wonder and view the items for a long time. I happened to go there on Monday night (Labor Day in the US) and looked until it became the same.

It is fascinating to see what they carry, what is popular and how cheap some of the items are. If you are looking for high quality this is not the place. Its more like a flea market in the US. Happy shopping and Saludos!

Streetwalking in Cuenca is Always Exciting

It seems there is always a parade or some type of event going on in Cuenca and I love streetwalking in Cuenca. You never know what you will run into when you turn the corner.

Indigenous Man

Although the majority of the Indigenous people who still dress traditionally are women, you run across the occasional male who still dresses according to his culture and geographical area. As I was walking Cuenca this past weekend I spied this gentleman and had to capture his photo. You will notice that he wears short pants, heavy boots, a black coat and a black round hat.

I find the Indigenous type of clothing is still worn mostly among this clan of men. There are a few examples and I will try to capture additional photos, but primarily it is the women that maintain the traditional dress.

Perfect Pitch from the Harp

As I strolled along the market place, on the side of the New Cathedral I was enthralled by a beautiful melody coming from a booth down the way. It was very sweet and melodic. As I drew nearer I saw that it was a harp.

This gentleman sets up all over Cuenca and plays for donations only. He is always immaculately dressed and plays with passion and experience, never missing a note! Catch him if you can!

Indigenous Lady Selling Lottery Tickets

This lady sits on the corner by my condo I am renting and attempts to sell lottery tickets to the people walking by. I haven’t ever really seen her sell any large quantities and can only really remember seeing a purchase one time. It is sad, but the majority of the Indigenous people work at the low-end jobs and make very little income.

They dress in their native colors and hats. Most are a proud people. They walk the streets pedaling fruit, trinkets, lottery tickets and flowers. They do this daily and somehow scratch out a living. I admire their tenacity and drive to survive!

A Great Hamburger at California Kitchen

I stopped by the other day to visit friends that run the California Kitchen here in Cuenca. Carol and George Evans are great people and opened this thriving restaurant to help the family out. This time I met daughter Susie and inquired how things were and if they had any serious offers. The family recently decided to place the restaurant up for sale and enjoy the fruits of their labor.

I was taken back at how busy the place was for an afternoon. It was jam-packed and it appears they are busier than the last time Kim and I were in Cuenca. I wish them luck and continued success. If you have a few extra dollars and want to invest, this restaurant is a pillar of the community and has an awesome trade. Plus it has delicious food!

I stepped out of the taxi and immediately knew I had been duped. I showed him the translation, exactly as written in Susan’s email and he dropped me about 12 blocks away. Great. A few minutes later and questions to locals helped me figure out which way I needed to walk. After about 5 minutes, which got my appetite working, I came upon her condo building and was permitted to enter. Last time Kim and I were in Cuenca we were going to take Susan Schenck’s Raw Foods Cooking class, but we missed it. I was bound and determined to take it this time and had communicated several emails to her about what I would like to see on the menu, after she inquired what I would fancy.

Susan and Her Prep Table, at the Front of the Class

After all the other 8 people arrived Susan began and started making the “Raw” ice cream she had on the menu, as it would take about 20 minutes to freeze. It was entitled “French Vanilla Ice Cream with Chocolate Swirl”. She blended 6 raw eggs, the Omega-3 kind and several other ingredients together and placed it in the freezer for solidification. It appeared very yummy and knowing the ingredients, my tastebuds were prepped. Besides who doesn’t like ice cream? She then gave a 10 minute talk on the benefits of a “Raw Diet”.

California Broccoli Salad

Susan next had several students chop broccoli, onions, etc for the “California Broccoli Salad”. She blended several ingredients from slivered almonds to dehydrated beef and put the items together and tossed them in two large bowls. Yours truly had one bowl and did a decent mixing job, as illustrated above. This was our first item and I can’t tell you how tasty this salad was. It made my taste buds come alive and I ate a large plate and went back for seconds. It was a meal in itself.

Raw Ice Cream

By this time the ice cream was ready and everybody had a bowl with the chocolate sauce made from “Raw” Cacao powder. If I had known ahead of time I could have brought some of my left over Cacao paste and used it. The ice cream would not set and was more of a milkshake texture. Susan thought it was the altitude maybe. It was still very good and I cleaned my bowl and went back for seconds (notice a pattern starting?).

Tiliapia Ceviche

Our final course was a “Tilapia Ceviche”. All the three courses had avocado in them, which was my original request. The fish has to be marinated from 4 to 8 hours for the lime juice to actually “cook” the fish and remove the parasites (not sure if this is true or just a “saying”). I love ceviche and in this part of the world it is very plentiful. Every country and area prepares it a little different and has their own ingredients. This was excellent and truly delicious. So much so that I believe I am going to use the frozen Mahi Mahi I have and try my hand at home today at making my own. By the way, of course I went back for a second plateful!

Susan Schenck with the Nomadic Texan

Susan gave us a lecture at the beginning of the class in which I learned more factors than I could record about a “Raw” diet. Did you know that when you cook anything over 118 degrees it destroys the valuable enzymes, 84% of the vitamins, 50% of the protein and a large portion of the Biophotons. Did you know that when you cook meat above 300 degrees it creates carcinogens? I couldn’t write fast enough. Susan is currently on about an 80% “Raw” diet after being on a 95% “raw” diet and regaining her health, not to mention losing weight and getting in shape. She is getting ready to hike for three-day on the Volcano trail and I couldn’t even begin to think about this outing. She is also author of two books “The Live Food Factor” and “Beyond Broccoli“, both available on Amazon. I would highly encourage you to take her class if you are interested in eating healthy and find yourself in Cuenca Ecuador. You will not be disappointed and you will learn a great deal about “Eating Raw”!

Pizza So Good I Forgot to Take a Photo

If you find yourself in Cuenca Ecuador and are ravished for a pizza, I recommend trying La Fornace on President Borrero off Sucre. It is fantastic. Kim instructed me before I left to make sure I did not eat my pizza with my hands, as it is bad manners in Ecuador. One must use a fork and knife to be in acceptable status.

No worries. I used both utensils as required and even though it felt strange at least the taste was phenomenal. I thoroughly enjoyed it. I apologize as the aroma was so enticing, I did not take a full pie photo, but rather dove in and ate half of it before I realized I needed a photo. I think you get the idea!

Oil Company Memorabilia

As we drove through the countryside and headed home we stopped an a small town about 45 miles outside of Cuenca. I really can’t remember the name of the town, but I was blown away when I walked into the gas station/convenience store. The store was new and had a fast food center with hot dogs, etc just like in the US.

Door #2

It also had a collection, behind locked glass doors of old cans of oil, advertisement pieces and many items from the oil industry. Some of these items were over 50 years old and it was obvious that this owner had a passion for Oil Industry Memorabilia. I usually don’t publish more than one photo, but given the quantity of items I am adding several photos for this day. The last photo is especially funny. It’s a Brunswick Ball Cleaner from who knows when. Enjoy!

Door #3

Door #4

Door #5

Brunswick Bowling Ball Cleaner

Hot Chocolate at the Cacao Plantation

I visited the Casa Ostrica Cacao Plantation this past Wednesday in Santa Rosa Ecuador.and learned all about chocolate and the process by which the chocolate is extracted from the beans. After grinding the beans I was extremely hot and perspiring. They served me a cup of hot chocolate and I immediately cooled off. It was so good I asked for a second cup.

It is a wonderful end result and I will never forget the fabulous taste of the fruit that surrounds the beans in the seed pod that I was fortunate enough to sample. If you ever have an opportunity to explore a Cacao Plantation do it!

Heading out of Cuenca early last Wednesday morning, we passed the Feria Libre Market. This is the biggest market in the city and one can wonder for hours, bartering, looking and touching everything from quinoa, rice, fish, pork, to fruits and vegetables. It is a magical place. I could not believe the amount of activity at this time of the morning. People were unloading trucks and carrying merchandise to their stalls.

We headed out to the lower portion of Azuay Province. I displayed the geographical lay of the land in my Banana blog, but one item I didn’t show you is below. It seems that a large portion of the chocolate beans are brought up to this region from the Coastal growing area and the beans are laid out to dry in the sun for two days. They have to be brought in at night to avoid the moisture in the air and placed back on the concrete drying beds again the next day. They are then bagged 100lb bags and transported to their processors.

Cacao Drying Beds in the Dry Area of Azuay Province

We did the banana tour and headed 30 minutes away to Santa Rosa with the Cacao Plantation’s owner in our car. We had time to discuss why he had resumed his cacao business seven years ago and Byron Trujillo Erazo told us it was simple mathematics. The chocolate industry was booming and he wanted to get back in it again after a forty-year lay off. We arrived at the Casa Ostrica and it was similar to what I expected. It had a tropical look and was filled with all kinds of plants and flowers that one would expect in a tropical setting. This is an example of the orchids growing on the entry poles that line the driveway. Amazing in my opinion!

Orchids Growing on the Entry Poles

The resort was constructed with a great deal of bamboo, which grows in large clumps on the Plantation and is used for a majority of the wood needs. This photo is what you see as you enter and arrive at the lodge. There are little cabanas all over the resort. I am guessing the resort can handle about 75 people at one time. Enough of this talk. Let’s head out to the Cacao Plantation ane see the process in action.

The Casa Ostrica Lodge

As you enter the Cacao section and look ahead all you can see is a plethora of trees filled with varying colors of the Cacao seed pods. The bright red ones are the ripe pods and are ready for harvesting. Each day the workers journey through the Cacao trees and harvest the ripe seed pods for processing.

One Red Seed Pod Ready for Harvest

Our guide showed us the method used to harvest the pods. He had a huge machete and I had no reservations about letting him do the cutting. Knowing how much a klutz I am, I figured it would very easy for me to lose a finger or two and I let him do the job.

Harvesting the Seed Pod

He then started the process of cutting the seed pod off and making the delicious fruit inside available. A lot of people are more than likely not familiar with the fact that the huge seed pod has fruit that surrounds the interior smaller beans.

Staring the Process of Harvesting the Fruit

He hacked into the seed pod and tore away a section of the outer shell. The seed pod is actually quite hard and he does not hack gingerly. I know I would slip and hurt myself, if it was left to me. I had an idea what the interior looked like, but had no idea of the taste. There is a white fruit that surrounds the beans and this has to be removed to get to the beans. The guide gave us a sample and I was floored. Once in my life have I had such a delicious morsel of fruit. That was in the Philippines when I tasted Mangosteen for the first time. I was addicted immediately. I scooped out about half the beans and ate them one at a time as we walked the Plantation. I cannot describe in mere words how wonderful the beans fruit tasted. It made the whole day worth the drive, etc.

Interior Cacao Beans with Fruit

Normally the beans are taken up to the drier climate and sun-dried for two days, but they had a quick way to dry the beans and that was using a wok like skillet over a bed of coals. You stir the beans over the heat until the outer shell becomes brittle.

A Shortcut to Drying the Beans

When the beans are ready you individually shell each bean. At first it seems a very daunting task and I couldn’t get it right. I kept breaking the beans apart and not harvesting solid beans. I tasted one of the beans after shelling and it was very bitter. I couldn’t believe that this would turn out to be a tasty treat. One of the ladies helped me and showed me how to snap the bean which left you with the entire bean in one piece. A much better step and saved the beans.

Diana Shelling the Beans.

The next step was to place the beans in a contraption that had been used for a long time and physically break the beans down into chocolate. I though, okay once through the grinder and it would be a piece of cake. Oh contraire. I had to keep scooping the chocolate residue back into the grinder and re-grind the concoction about six times. By the ends of the process I was hot, sweating and thankful I had my Tilley Hat to block out the sun from my face. The young lady broke down and the crew got her a hat, as she was starting to sunburn. By the time we got through I was worn out and my arms ached.

Nomadic Texan Grinding the Beans

After I finished the grinding it was time for a chocolate drink. This photo shows that they do not waste the seed pods and use them to serve the drinks in. One also receives a dark chocolate bar from their cacao plantation and the illustration shows a cross-cut of the seed pod.

Interior of the Seed Pod, Candy Bar and a Chocolate Drink

Okay I had worked up an appetite and it was time to eat a traditional meal from Casa Ostrica. Obviously Mr. Erazo wanted us to taste ostrich and that was what we were served along with rice, salad and fried plantains. I have taken a liking to the plantains and didn’t think I would. For the record the ostrich tasted just like beef to me. The others thought it had a gamey taste. Before the meal they served us a hot chocolate drink made from the chocolate shavings. It was so good I had to have a second cup. It also acted to drive my temperature down as the Green Tea in Asia does. Caught me off guard.

Traditional Meal of Ostrich, Rice, Salad and Fried Plantains

I talked with my wife Kim prior to our trip and she asked me to bring back some of the cacao beans if at all possible. I obtained a bag and literally scooped the remaining beans from the wok like pan over the BBQ and let them cool down. They gave me the large ball of chocolate from all my efforts and I will try to bring it home. Wish me luck as I am not sure they will allow this to enter the US. We will see. Please cross your fingers for me. I hope I can and that way my family can sample the dark chocolate. I wish that there was some way to bring home a seed pod and let Kim try the taste of that fruit. It is one of the highlights of my trip to Ecuador.

My Chocolate Ball and Cacao Beans for Kim

I am thankful that Mio Tours allowed me to accompany them on this fabulous trip and I learned so much about Bananas and Cacao. This El Oro Province is amazing and you drive and drive through a vast amount of banana plantations, the number one export of Ecuador, but you also are privy to all kinds of fruit trees growing wild alongside the highway. For the purposes of full disclosure both Mio Tours and Tilley Hats are sponsors. Regardless I have to say that this a fabulous tour and tasting the Cacao fruit is worth the entire trip. I also have to say a tour of Casa Ostrica is a fabulous way to spend a day in Ecuador. If you get the opportunity to take this tour, jump on it! Saludos mi amigos.